It’s my favourite, because it’s all the colours I love and wear: black, grey, green, red, orange. And in classic Noro style, it’s done in a rather unexpected manner, with funky colour changes and blends.
The downside to being a knit designer is that you rarely get to knit for yourself. I’m usually working on deadline projects, design projects, projects for books and magazines and other stuff. When I do get to knit for myself, I tend to go for plain socks – the sort of thing I can work on when I’m tired, or waiting for design inspiration, or when I’m in the line-up at the bank. My “me” knitting is usually projects that don’t require any thought or attention, and more to the point, projects that can be easily worked on in stolen moments and can carried around in my purse. Sadly, a sweater doesn’t fit these criteria.
I’d had a bag of Kureyon 242 sitting at the top for my stash for nearly three years, waiting for knitting time I was never going to have. So earlier this year, I arranged a barter deal with a skilled sample knitter I know: she would knit Undercurrent for me, as part of an exchange.
She worked on it over the summer, and returned the (beautifully knit) pieces to me a few weeks ago. I wanted to do the finishing. I’m VERY picky about the finishing.
Setting in a sleeve requires clippy pins, sock yarn and coffee.
Plus I knew I wanted to make some adjustments to the buttonband.
I washed the pieces, finished up the hood, and then started on the front edging. For this design, it’s done in one piece, along the right front, up and over the edge of the hood, and down the left front.
Now, the thing about knitting this sort of buttonband is that you have to place buttonholes as you’re working. And before I started it, I didn’t really have any idea if I wanted buttonholes – and if I did, I wasn’t sure how many I would want.
I pinned the thing together at the sides so I could try it on, and made some measurements: I also knew I wanted the buttonband to be a bit deeper than called for in the pattern, but I wasn’t sure how deep.
So I knit the buttonband – nice and deep – without buttonholes. And then when it was the length I wanted, I bound most of it off (on the WS), all the way along to the top of the right front. The side where I would want the buttonholes.
And then! Then! I figured out how many buttonholes I wanted and where.
Buttonhole positions marked.
And then I made them!
How did I make them, you ask? Crochet hook!
Magical buttonhole-making tool.
I’d left the stitches of that section live, and so I was able to strategically drop stitches where I wanted buttonholes to be. I dropped them down to the middle of the band, and converted what was a k2 to a (k2tog, yo) to make a hole. And I “ravelled” those two stitches back up.
There is one small drawback to this method – other than it being sort of insane – they’re not the same buttonholes that the designer specified, but they look good to me, and they’ll get the job done.
I’m absolutely thrilled with it. Many, many thanks to Kim without whom this would just be a bag of yarn…
I love the colors she chose for the sample, but then when I saw some of the suggestions she and Tanis, the yarn dyer, had for other combos.. well, just wow! These two worked together would be absolutely fantastic.
We’re rather fond of Laura Nelkin’s Gusto cowl pattern from our latest issue.
One of the things we love about it is that it’s a fantastic way to use up sock yarn leftovers. (We know you’ve got some lying around. It’s ok, no need to be ashamed. All sock knitters have leftovers.)
Laura’s design uses a homemade Magic Ball composed of sock yarn leftovers to create a fantastic one-of-a-kind stash-reducing knit. If you’re not familiar with these wonderful things, she’s kindly provided a tutorial for us.
Once you’ve discovered the Magic Ball technique, we figure you’ll get totally hooked, and so we’ve arranged a giveaway: a signup for Laura’s Design Your Own Cowl Craftsy class. Take the yarn you’ve just made and indulge your own creative impulses! And because we love you and her, we’re also giving you a copy ofher new book, too. One lucky reader will win both prizes.
The usual rules apply. Leave a comment on this post by midnight EST Wednesday October 22nd. One comment will be chosen at random to answer a skill testing question. If the commenter answers correctly they will win the yarn and the book. If you have already won a prize from us in the past year, please do give other knitters a chance.
Thanks to Craftsy for the class, to Potter Craft for the book, and as always, to Laura.
I’ve been a wee bit obsessed with designing for magic ball knitting lately and decided it was time to make a tutorial to show the magic knot I use for joining skeins.
Step 1: Choose Your Yarn! I decided to play with my LYS’s excellent “stash” of Knitted Witt Gumballs for this tutorial. I choose enough to knit another Gusto as I can’t really get enough of that pattern! You can join together yarns in stash (see note below), or have a base yarn and join bits of color throughout it (like I did for Magmatic Boom). This is where you get to be CREATIVE! Then begin to wind your yarn.
Step 2: Lay down the two ends you want to join with the tails going in opposite directions.
Step 3: Take one end and go underneath the other end to the opposite side.
Step 4: Then bring that end back over and lay it across itself.
Step 5: Then take that end and go inside the loop you have created to make a overhand knot.
Step 6: Pull tight.
Step 7: Repeat with other tail.
Step 8: Holding onto the working yarn, start to pull in opposite directions.
Step 9: Keep pulling, the two knots will slide together.
Step 10: Pull all the way tight!
Step 11: Trim the ends VERY close to the knot, sharp scissors help!
Step 12: Test your knot by yanking on it HARD! If you do not follow these steps exactly the knot will pop apart and it’s better to find that out now than while you are knitting!
I want to make a note that this knot is not perfect for every yarn and you should definitely test it with your yarn before you commit to it. I’ve heard that it doesn’t work well with single ply yarn, yarns with high silk content, and cellulose based fibers (like cotton, rayon and tencel). You can put a bit of Fray Check on the knot, which will make it hold… but just do a test first to be sure, sometimes it can change the color and hand of your fiber. Your other choice for joining the ends is to use a Russian Join, which will work on wool fibers but not the other fibers listed above.
The Brindled hat is a Woolly Wormhead classic – wearable and classic but with a nice stylistic twist. I love indigonightowl’s color choice for her project.
The Krydda sweater is a winner – elegant and beautiful and quick to knit. Nephele has chosen a wonderful color, and it’s coming along well. Can’t wait to see it grow!
Twist Again is a terrific shawl – super for handspun, but just as good in commercial yarn, too. A not-too-challenging but entirely beautiful project. Ando has chosen a perfect color of handspun alpaca for hers…
The Nachfalter fingerless mitts are exactly what you need as the seasons change – fast and fun and warming without feeling too wintery.
Katdriver‘s third pair are green, and she’s already working on a fourth… oh, to be on her holiday gift list!
And Gustois another must-knit early fall accessory – not just because the result is beautiful… Look at Sonnydays‘ project
but also because of the fun in making your own “magic ball” from sock yarn leftovers.
I adore how Sherinik’s Apiculturist crochet/knit combo scarf is coming along… the photo shows the difference in the motifs before and after blocking. (Yes, blocking *is* important!)
Submitting my first pattern to Knitty (and first knitting submission anywhere) was nerve wracking. Is the design too simple? Too complex? Are there many mistakes? Will others find the design worth knitting? Having these questions was a situation I had never expected just a couple of years after randomly buying needles, yarn, and a beginner’s knitting book while stuck for a few hours in Hamburg, Germany.
Yvonne’s designing desk…
I could never knit a pattern without adding alterations and flairs of my own – a section of cable, a stitch pattern, a concept for construction can inspire a project at any point of the day. When a good friend of mine, an experienced designer, suggested that I write some of my ideas up as proper patterns, I jumped at the challenge.
Although I have followed many patterns, I was unclear on basic terminology, formatting and charting. How do I write instructions so that another knitter can reproduce what I have done? How do I take decent photographs of a knitted work? What is tech-editing or testing? Over the past year, with the support of my knitting circle and the internet, I learned how to transform a concept from my needles into a pattern on paper. I loved sketching the designs and doing the arithmetic but was terrible at keeping track of abbreviations and explaining tricky parts of the construction.
Then it came time to send that pattern into the world. Hitting that final point-of-no-return submit button was the toughest part for me.
Then Knitty emailed me – my pattern was accepted!
The editor did the heavy lifting to get the pattern ready — they streamlined the text, fixed all of the mistakes and rendered the chart in professional software. It was so cool to watch the Word and Excel documents transform into the sleek online publication that I have seen for years.
In the last weeks, I have begun to see projects of my Knitty design pop up on Ravelry. Knitters are putting their own spins on the pattern and observing this has been thrilling. I am hooked!
Knitter, designer and author JC Briar developed the Stitch Maps charting tool, and in this blog post she shows the difference between a conventional lace chart and one of her “grid-less” stitch maps charts.
We thought you might enjoy seeing this alternate view of the stitch pattern, and JC’s illuminating analysis.
Being a chart geek, one of the things I enjoy most about perusing each new issue of Knitty is scoping out the charts: What stitch patterns do they depict? Are the charts straightforward, or do they have intriguing quirks? And, of course: are there charts that I’d rather see in the form of stitch maps?
Its double-leaf stitch pattern seemed symmetrical. But its chart?
The chart as published.
Not so much. The chart appeared jumbled to me: Where were the leaves? What was with the random sprinkling of purl symbols? And why did “no stitch” symbols sit along the chart’s left edge only, on rows 3 and 4? Looking at the symmetry in the Hugga photos, I would’ve expected matching “no stitch” symbols at the chart’s right edge, perhaps on rows 7 and 8.
With two vertical repeats on display, and “column guides” highlighting the stitch columns, the leaves pop into view.
And the purl symbols resolve into focus: some line up along the center of each leaf; others form a vine running between the leaves.
Looking closely at the stitch map, I was able to figure out why “no stitch” symbols appear only on the left edge of the original chart. It’s because the stitch pattern isn’t actually symmetrical.
The decreases that join the leaves to the vine aren’t evenly spaced. Sometimes they’re four rows apart; sometimes they’re six rows apart. As it turns out, this uneven spacing means row 3 has an extra decrease, and row 5 has an extra yarn over. So in the original chart, only rows 3 and 4 need “no stitch” symbols.
Gleaning these bits of understanding from the stitch map was fun for me. I’m sure other chart geeks would find it fun too. But using a stitch map to understand a stitch pattern is decidedly useful too. Yeah, I could knit from the original chart – but I’m sure the knitting would flow a lot more easily now that I know how the leaves are formed, how the purls line up into veins and a vine, and where the leaves connect with the vine.
We released our issue Surprise about three weeks ago.
(Do you know about our Surprises? About six weeks after the issue goes live, we release a couple of “bonus” patterns. We sometimes save an extra fun or interesting pattern for the Surprise. Sometimes it’s a pattern that’s a little too seasonal, if you see what I mean.)
Fifteen Love may well be the perfect summer knit. And I don’t know about you, but if I’d seen these pictures in early March I would have been seriously cranky. It’s mid-May and spring has only just arrived here in Toronto.